After all the months of planning and research, I can honestly say that everything exceeded our expectations and then some!  You both provided us with fantastic guidance and our final itinerary of Cape Town, Botswana and Zambia could not have been more perfect for us and our 2 adult children.  Nothing can quite prepare you for the magic that is Africa.  Here then are the highlights of our trip.

As you know, this trip was planned to coincide with our daughter, Mary, finishing her semester abroad program in South Africa.  We arrived in Johannesburg on May 4th and met up with Mary at the airport.  We spent the night in Johannesburg and left for Cape Town the morning of the 5th.  Charlie, our guide in Cape Town, was just the best!  He deftly arranged for us to see all the highlights Cape Town has to offer in 3 full days.  Our tour of the Cape Peninsula, the Eagle and Cheetah conservation projects in Stellenbosch, and our excursion to Table Mountain were spectacular indeed.  Charlie was even able to find a store in the Cape Quarter for me to buy some of the Cape Malay spices to take home.  Of course, having the opportunity to meet up with Jeff at Beluga our last night in town was a special treat.

Camps Bay © Jeff McClay

The morning of the 9th we departed for Botswana via Johannesburg and Maun.  From Maun, we took our bush flight to Savute Safari Lodge in the Chobe National Park where we were met by Gee, our guide during our stay at Savute.  The lodge is just fantastic – our rooms overlooked the watering hole where elephant herds would make regular visits during our stay.  Our hosts, MC and Michelle made sure we had all the comforts of home.  The game drives in Savute were the best viewing we had the entire time on safari.  In the first two days we saw leopard and lions, which according to my daughter, is very lucky indeed!  Gee’s skill at tracking wildlife made the game drives very exciting, and we loved the sundowners out in the field with our safari buddies from the Netherlands.

During our last sundowner, the call came in that lions had been spotted and we literally dropped everything and jumped in the jeep for a wild ride reminiscent of the Indiana Jones attraction at Disneyland!  Our wildlife sightings also included elephant, zebras, cape buffalo, wildebeest, giraffe and warthogs.  After 2 nights, we departed Savute for Camp Moremi in the Okavango Delta (Xaxanaka Lagoon).

Zebra © Jeff McClay

Camp Moremi was a very different environment where we were able to see many avian species on the water (and kept our distance from the hippos!), including a fish eagle who had just scooped up a tilapia and was enjoying his dinner in a tree.  Frank, our guide, was delightful, and even made a necklace for Mary out of a water lily during our afternoon cruise on the lagoon.  We found the elusive wild dogs hanging out under some bushes during one of our game drives.  BK, Hannah and Charity were lovely hosts and we so enjoyed the evening choir concerts before each dinner.  After our 2 nights at Moremi, we left for Leroo La Tau in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park.

Our rooms at Leroo La Tau faced the channel where we watched herds of elephant and zebra come down to the water.  We even heard lions roaring during the night.  Juan, Priscilla and Fred were terrific hosts, and arranged a lovely 21st birthday celebration for Mary, complete with birthday cake and candles!  It certainly was a far cry from the standard Las Vegas blowout most of her friends have experienced.  How many college students can say they spent their 21st birthday in Botswana?  Calvin, our guide took us on a tour of his village where we visited a primary school and a clinic.  We brought some school supplies and marveled at the dedication of the teachers and the politeness of the students who greeted us as we walked into their classrooms.  By the end of our week-long safari in Botswana, we had seen everything but rhinos.

Leroo Le Tau © Jeff McClay

Our last stop was Zambia and the Isands of Siankaba, located about an hour from Victoria Falls.  Our trip would take us by plane from Leroo La Tau to Kasane, where we were met by a Bushtracks guide who drove us to the Chobe River.  From there we transferred to a boat to cross the river into Zambia, where we were met by another Bushtracks guide who drove us to the lodge.  We were able to experience the African version of Four Corners where the countries of Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe meet in the middle of the Chobe River, much like the states of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona meet in the southwest U.S.

The lodge is located on the Zambezi River and is an idyllic setting located in the treetops and connected by rope bridges and platforms above the river.  Nothing can compare to listening to the sounds of the mighty Zambezi at night as you are falling asleep, including the occasional hippo snort!  What an incredible ending to our vacation.  The lodge is truly 5-star with amazing food and lovely accommodations.  Graham, Brett and Claire and their staff are definitely top notch.  They arranged a lovely birthday celebration for Paul’s 60th birthday.  Matthews took us on a tour of his village which included a stop at the preschool where the children entertained us with songs and imitations of Zambian chameleons!  They were thrilled to line up for happy face stickers which we brought along with more school supplies.

Leopard © Jeff McClay

The highlight of our stay was the trip to Victoria Falls escorted by Lucky, our guide.  He took us on all the trails for the best views of the falls, and gamely carried 5 sets of rain gear for us to put on!  Needless to say, I was a bit nervous listening to Jeff and Mary talk about swimming in Devil’s Pool and white water rafting (both of which were closed, thank goodness!).  When they decided on the zip line across the gorge, I felt my stomach turn as I realized they expected me to do it too!  Well, there was no way I was going to wimp out, and on the video you can hear Jeff say, “I can’t believe she actually did it!”  The falls was truly awe-inspiring and like nothing we’ve ever seen.  We left Zambia on the 18th for our marathon flight home to San Diego.

Jeff and Liesl, every aspect of our trip was spot on – no delays, missed connections, late flights or missing transfer drivers.  We came home with thousands of pictures, some of which I have included here, and many incredible memories.  Thanks to your expert consultation, we had the trip of a lifetime and have been smitten by the people and places we’ve experienced.  We hope to plan another adventure to Africa – perhaps Namibia next time and will be sure to call you!

Many thanks to the McClay’s for the kind words and awesome pictures! If you’d like to see more of the McClay’s pictures, check out our Client Submissions pin board on Pinterest.

We’ll begin by taking a look at the Zambian conservationist, Norman Carr.

Norman Carr

Norman Carr was born in the busy port town of Chinde, in what is now modern day Malawi, in 1912. He received his education in England and returned to Africa in 1930 where he worked as an ‘Elephant Control Officer’ in the Luangwa Valley. This majestically titled job entailed mitigating the damage done by the resident elephant herds on the crop of farmers in the area.  After serving for four years in the Kings African Rifles, where he attained the rank of Captain, Norman became one of Africa’s first Game Rangers in the Luangwa Valley’s newly formed ‘Game Department’.  It was in this role that Norman started implementing conservation measures which would be adopted throughout Africa.

Norman had to be alert in the bush

Norman Carr persuaded the then Chief Nsefu to set aside some of his land for game conservation use, and this became Nsefu Camp – the first camp of its kind open to the public in what is now Zambia. Some years later a spinal injury, caused by a run in with a buffalo, necessitated a withdrawal from the scene for a year or so. After making a recovery, Norman returned to work as a Warden for the Kafue National Park. It was here that he famously adopted two orphaned male lions – characters which left an indelible impression on all who met them.  Norman lovingly raised the pair to adulthood and later successfully reintroduced them in to the wild when they were about three years old (inspiring the novel and movie “Return to the Wild”). After cofounding the first hunting operation in the Luangwa Valley with Peter Hankin, it was in 1968 that Norman Carr’s next revolutionary idea came about…

Norman Carr with the orphaned cubs

Midday Stroll

Growing up in the wild, Norman was always very at home in the African bush. His deep understanding of the dynamic between man and animal meant that he read situations between the two very well. For Norman, a walk in the bush amongst the Big Five was part of his everyday life. So much so in fact that he decided to extend the opportunity of a Walking Safari to visitors of Chibembe Safari Camp. The safari walks were a smash hit! Never before had people experienced wildlife in such a manner, where man and nature interacted so harmoniously in such close proximity.

One of the first Walking Safaris

In his later years, Norman Carr continued in his unwavering quest to conserve and protect all wildlife.  In 1979 he devoted two years of his life to the ‘Save the Rhino’ campaign aimed at eradicating the rampant poaching of the Valley’s rhinoceros population. Through the Kapani School Fund, Norman provided scholarships for many children in the area all the while engraining in them the importance of wildlife conservation. These were to be amongst his final acts as the great conservationist, Mr Norman Carr, passed peacefully in 1993.

Norman Carr’s pioneering spirit led to him becoming one of the most important figures in Zambia’s recent history, in the fields of tourism and conservation. His philanthropically inclined nature meant he was well liked and respected amongst his peers, and people in general.

Next time you’re out on that amazing Walking Safari, tip your hat to Mr Carr…

*If you’d like to see more images of Norman and the lions, check out our Pinterest board here.

Unusual tree-climbing lions found only in Kafue National Park

Despite the remoteness of a lot of areas in Zambia, getting to the country is a lot more straightforward than people think. The international airport in Lusaka, Zambia’s capital, serves several major airlines including KLM, SAA and Emirates. Once there, smaller chartered planes or overland transfers take you to your destination with ease.

Zambia can be incredibly hot during the summer months, particularly during October, with temperatures known to climb as high as 100°F. It’s for this reason that we recommend travelling there in the cooler months of July and August. However, if a little bit of heat doesn’t scare you, game viewing is best during the hotter months as animals congregate at watering holes and the grass is a lot shorter (which greatly aids visibility).

A lot of camps in Zambia are seasonal (especially in the South Luangwa) which means that they’re taken down during the rainy season, and rebuilt at the start of each safari season, by skilled local craftsmen. This, coupled with the fact that the camps are pretty small, means that availability is something one must definitely take in to consideration. It’s advisable to book well in advance, so get those Zambian thinking caps on early…

Zambia is famed for walking safaris

During the rainy season, also known as the emerald season, the bush is really lush, thick and green which makes for amazing photographs. Seasonal flowers bloom and the entire landscape is transformed into an Eden for birds and animals. There are over 740 recorded species of bird in Zambia, with each vegetation habitat hosting it’s own distinctive set. A bird lovers treat!

Zambia is one of the best places to go on walking safari in the world. If you’ve been on safari before, and are seeking a more authentic, purist experience, then a walking safari is for you. Experience nature the way our ancestors did by walking in amongst it in the South Luangwa National Park. Experienced, trained guides escort you safely through the African bush whilst educating you on the unique fauna and flora as you go. This exhilarating experience is one that you won’t soon forget.

Victoria Falls

While the adrenaline is still pumping from your walking safari, why not take it up a notch with one of Zambia’s numerous thrill seeking activities. How about a bungee jump aside Victoria Falls – the world’s largest waterfall? Alternatively, brave the rapids in an exhilarating  white water raft down the Zambezi river. If you’d prefer to stay dry, Zambia is well known for it’s elephant back safaris which offer a unique take on the game viewing experience. The elephant is less invasive to other animals as a vehicle, so there’s an opportunity to get up close and personal with the wildlife.

Speaking of elephants, the local herd at Mfuwe Lodge are known to wonder through the lodge and right up to reception en route to eat mangoes off a nearby tree in fruiting season. Where else in the world could you pass elephants peacefully munching on mangoes on your way to breakfast?

An elephant at reception at Mfuwe Lodge

Besides the game rich Lower Zambezi National Park, there is also the Kafue, Zambia’s largest and most remote national park and the second biggest park in the world.  Sought after sightings by safari buffs are the Tree Climbing Lions and Pel’s Fishing Owl.  Lake Tanganyika is one of the world’s oldest, deepest and longest lakes and boasts a plethora of tropical fish and water based activities. Whether you feel like snorkelling amongst the lake’s inhabitants, or relaxing on it’s sandy beaches, you’re sure to leave feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. The Chimfunshi Chimp Sanctuary is home to over 100 orphan chimpanzees run by the well known Siddle family, who have received numerous awards and recognition for their brilliant work.

Lake Tanganyika

As you can see, Zambia truly does offer something for everyone. All that’s left to do now is to decide what you do first! Contact African Safari Consultants to arrange your trip to Zambia and take advantage of our Bushcamps Walking Safari special offer whereby you stay for 8 nights and only pay for 7.

Zambia awaits!

If asked what was the world’s largest mammal migration, most people would probably guess the annual migration of wildebeest across the plains of the Masai Mara. And they’d be wrong…

Fruit bats roosting during the daylight hours.

Every year between October and December, up to ten million fruit bats make the journey from all over central Africa to the Kasanka National Park in Zambia in what is the world’s largest mammal migration. The bats come to the area to feast on the ripening fruits of the fertile valley and usually stay for around six weeks.

Being nocturnal animals, early morning sees a flurry of activity in the African skies as the bats return to roost before sunrise. Once roosting, the animals are extremely difficult to see so it is highly recommended that you join one of the early morning guided walk safaris.

The bats play a highly important role in the ecological system of the area. By coming to feast on all the delicious fruits on offer, and then returning home, the bats unwittingly distribute tree seeds throughout their journey. It is estimated that the bats are responsible for as much as 60% of the seed dispersal of African rain forest trees. How many other animals can say that about their excrement?

Bats in the skies of Kasanka National Park.

Watch the video here to see just what makes the annual migration such a special occurrence.

Every rule has an exception, and this is the tale of just such an exception. In the Luanga Valley of Zambia, Norman Carr Safaris came across this remarkable sight of a mother and calf elephant getting horribly stuck in the mud, and Abraham Banda was on hand to capture the rescue process on film.

The Kapani Lagoon is a source of drinking water for the animals of the area, as well as the place to go for a relieving mud bath. Unfortunately though, a young calf was unlucky enough to get stuck in the mud when visiting the lagoon recently. The calf’s cries attracted her mother who rushed to her rescue, only to get stuck in the mud herself. The pair had been there for a day, exhausted and dehydrated, when the Safari group came across them.

The startled animal lovers simply could not stand by and watch them struggle and slowly die. The group contacted the South Luangwa Conservation Society, who agreed that the elephants should be rescued. The following pictures detail just how this amazing feat was achieved.

The herd inspects the mother and daughter.

The struggling left the mother and calf exhausted.

The skilled rescue team bravely slip a rope under the calf.

Slowly but surely, the team begin hauling the calf out.

The terrified calf tries desperately to stay with her mum.

Nearly there! The bulk of the calf is now out of the mud.

The newly freed calf is reluctant to leave mum's side.

The team pull the calf further away from the mud.

The team unwrap the rope and let the calf on her way.

The calf rushes to rejoin the herd who call her from the banks.

Attention now shifts to the much bigger, much heavier mum.

The hard work is starting to show results as mum has two legs out.

The last stretch as the exhausted elephant struggles out.

Success! Mum rushes off to rejoin her herd.

t was extremely heartening for all to see how many local people joined in the efforts to free these two elephants. The cheers of joy, first when the baby ran to his cousin and then when Mum was finally released from the jaws of the sticky, cloying mud were wonderful! Everyone seemed to identify with the mum’s plight  – we all saw the incredible emotional bond between the worried herd members and mum and baby.

A big well done to the South Luangwa Conservation Society and also all the Norman Carr Safari staff who bravely fought to make this a happy ending!

Story by: Norman Carr Safaris

Images by: Abraham Banda

]]> http://blog.africansafaris.com/2011/11/02/dramatic-elephant-rescue-luanga-valley-zambia/feed/ 1 http://blog.africansafaris.com/2011/10/03/we%e2%80%99ve-been-nominated-for-travel-leisure-magazine%e2%80%99s-a-list-travel-agent-awards/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=we%25e2%2580%2599ve-been-nominated-for-travel-leisure-magazine%25e2%2580%2599s-a-list-travel-agent-awards http://blog.africansafaris.com/2011/10/03/we%e2%80%99ve-been-nominated-for-travel-leisure-magazine%e2%80%99s-a-list-travel-agent-awards/#comments Mon, 03 Oct 2011 08:50:42 +0000 Vanessa Ratcliffe http://africansafaris.com/blogdirectory/?p=1057 Posted in AfricaAfrican SafarisBotswanaClient Testimonialsfamily safariluxury safariNamibiaprivate safariSouth AfricaZambia

Some great in depth feedback from clients who have recently traveled with us.  Open, honest & some super footage at the end too.  Enjoy the read and if you need any advice or thoughts on the properties or itinerary they mention please get in touch with us and we will happily help you out:

Dear Jeff,

I hope your trip was as wonderful as ours!  Marvelous and memorable.  Thanks for all the help with planning.  We were picked up everywhere we were supposed to be and ushered where we needed to be.  Flights were all on time.  But, this was clearly not a “restful” vacation as we were never up after 6:30 a.m.  Go, go, go!

Kensington Place was beautiful and we certainly could have had a few extra days in Cape Town – love that city.  My bike ride was awesome and I can highly recommend irideafrica.com for rentals and guiding.  My route is here:  http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/46512042 .  Mark went to the horse race track but didn’t win a thing all day – he had a blast.

Transfer to Vic Falls went well and I can certainly recommend Islands of Siankaba.  Beautiful property, very relaxing, and nice to be away from all the activity closer to the falls.  We can also highly recommend the Rhino Walk in Mosi oa Tunya Park, especially for guests not doing a South African safari and who won’t have a chance to see rhino otherwise.  I am sorry we missed other things at Vic Falls, though, so you might suggest an extra day there to do Devil’s Armchair, white water rafting or other activities.  The helicopter ride was ok, and if we hadn’t done it we’d be sorry we missed it, but now that we’ve done it, we could have lived without it, especially in the drier season when the falls are so amazing and visible from ground level.  Plus, there was a bit of an attitude on the flight as the helicopter company had some mechanical issue before we got there and so some very young kid was rather upset that he had to wait, kinda making his family and everyone else a bit stressed.

Heading to Chobe was also easy with a smooth transfer.  Chobe Under Canvas, I think was our favorite camp.  Although it was “glamping,” really cold in the mornings, and incredibly secluded, the staff and the wildlife made it the highlight destination.  Could have done an extra day here, too, and the list of wildlife we saw here was impressive.  Ten minutes into the camp we saw a leopard!

On to Baines Camp.  I think our favorite thing about Baines was the fact that there were only two other couples, one of whom we came to learn is good friends with some neighbors in Lost River.  Small world.  We had fun with them and ran into them again on the way to Jo’burg.  We did the “sleep on the balcony” thing at Baines and were surprised by an elephant chomping grass and bumping into the railing not 5 feet from our bed.  Pretty cool!  They also did an amazing private dinner for our anniversary, which was extra special.

Finally, we were at Eagle Island, a lovely camp but after having such incredible privacy – none of the other camps had more than three other couples staying – Eagle Island was full up and crowded.  We loved the communal meals at the other camps, whereas Eagle Island/Orient Express does separate tables as a corporate rule.  Because Baines and Eagle Island offered more water options, I’d recommend three days at one or the other, but not both, and use the extra days so you can have an extra day(s) in Cape Town, Vic Falls and/or Chobe.

The amazing thing about Chobe was just the sheer volume and diversity of wildlife.  Nothing like it anywhere else.  Once we’d been to Chobe, going on a game drive elsewhere was cool because we could see the other tourists, who’d not been to Chobe, getting really excited about seeing an impala or elephant a quarter mile away!  In a sense, Chobe “ruined” it for us by spoiling us.  What a treat!  I’d probably recommend going to Chobe last, because guests will be totally blown away.

Everywhere we went, the food and weather throughout was incredible – great meals, no “stomach” issues, barely a cloud in the sky the whole two weeks.  And, as you’d told us, there was no issue at all with being gay at any property.  Not even a glance.  Thank you also for the champagne treat.  We shared it with others and it was really special.  We appreciate that.

Before I saw your message this morning, I was just saying to Mark, “I want to go back to Africa.”  He does, too.  I’m thinking Namibia!

Thanks again for everything.  Mark, you and Lise gave me an amazing birthday I will never forget.

Scott & Mark also got some super footage while they were away which they loaded up on YouTube.  I have chosen a couple of clips which I think are great – enjoy!

Elephants in the Mud     |    Energetic Lions    |    Super Staff

We were chatting in the office this week about Zambia and what a fantasic safari destination it is.  That of course reminded me of my Friday photo of the week and more importantly this week – the View of the Week!

My colleague Lise was recounting her time on the Busanga Plains in Zambia’s Kafue National Park and spoke specifically about the “loo’s with views”  We couldn’t find her images from her trip there but I had a dig around and found this beatiful sunrise image from Shumba Camp.

Shumba Camp is a premier camp in the Wilderness Safaris Portfolio.  Wouldn’t you love to watch the sunrise from this spectacular setting?

Sunrise over the Busanga Plains from your luxury safari tent

Kafue National Park is one of the largest in Africa.  It is remote, wild and diverse.  With abudant game and bird life – it is a destination for any repeat safari goer!

I am often humbled by the newsletters that pop into my inbox as the weeks fly by.  There are many many people doing amazing good out there.  Through these newsletters we are reminded of how easy it is to actually contribute to someone else’s life who’s so less fortunate.  We often forget how little others actually have.  And how little it is we need to contribute to make a massive difference to someone else.

John the shy 5 year old

I was very touched by the story I read on Friday about John.  His little life’s tale was circulated in the Project Luangwa Newsletter, along with a few other amazing things they get up too.  But John’s story touched my heart.  Kids seem to have a way of doing that.  They are so innocent, so forced into their situations and surroundings without any choice.  John was born with legs that finish just above the knee and only one hand.  To make it just a bit harder for him, even his “good” hand has the two middle fingers fused together.

John still has the innocence and ability that children seem to have of seeing past his disabilities.  He still tries hard to participate and play with the other kids.  But he obviously struggles to keep up with them.  He has siblings, who help him as much as possible, but he is also a growing child and there is only so much they are able to carry him around.

An appeal was made in the Project Luangwa newsletter to try and get funds together to get John a sturdy wheelchair that would last in the harsh African environment.  The target amount needed was £460 and so far the appeal has managed to raise £630 for John’s new wheelchair.  If you have anything spare and would like to contribute even a small amount, please donate here and help this shy 5 year old boy.

The power of donation is huge.  And the smallest amounts, when all added together make the biggest difference.  Thanks to everyone who is making a difference!